A Donkey in the City

At the heart of bustling Cairo, a megacity of over 20 million people, it is amusing to see donkeys blending in with the traffic or stationed on some street corners tied to carts selling goods - fruits (like this photo I took yesterday on the way back to the hotel from the office), vegetables, sometimes wooden baskets or earthen jars. What they sell are often inexpensive, especially when converted to dollars or euros, usually in the range of 5  to15 L.E (about $1-$2 USD). I have seen many donkeys selling watermelons - a fruit highly recommended during Ramadan to keep the body hydrated.

It's another weekend here , my fourth since I arrived in Cairo at the end of June to assume the  post, ad interim, of Deputy Regional Director, while awaiting the appointment of someone. While the work is busy and very challenging, I take a little bit of time from my weekends to capture some of my observations about daily life here. It comes easy and naturally, with my sociology background. Yesterday was TGIT, the equivalent of  the American TGIF. Given that the weekend in Islamic countries like Egypt is Friday Saturday, Thank God its Thursday simply gives a special feeling of relief, knowing that the next day allows you to sleep longer, take it easy, and catch up with one's self, and even blog! Writing lightheartedly about these observations, does not erase the daily images I see of the crisis going on in the region and how they impact on our work and the lives of people, but italso gives me an added perspective about how life goes on in this world, no matter what.....

Yesterday, it was the donkey that caught my attention, so I decided to do a little research about this creature. To my surprise, I learned so much and was totally amused!

"Wikipedia describes the donkey or ass as a domesticated member of the horse family, The wild ancestor of the donkey is the African wild ass, The donkey has been used as a working animal for at least 5000 years. There are more than 40 million donkeys in the world, mostly in developing countries, where they are used principally as draught or pack animals. Working donkeys are often associated with those living at or below subsistence levels. Small numbers of donkeys are kept for breeding or as pets in developed countries.

A male donkey or ass is called a jack, a female a jenny or jennet; a young donkey is a foal. Jack donkeys are often used to produce mules." The donkey is a herbivorous animal and the smallest member of the horse family.

  

Donkeys have large ears, which may pick up more distant sounds, and may help cool the donkey's blood. They can defend themselves by biting, striking with the front hooves or kicking with the hind legs. Donkeys have a notorious reputation for stubbornness, but this has been attributed to a much stronger sense of "self preservation" than exhibited by horses. Likely based on a stronger prey instinct and a weaker connection with man, it is considerably more difficult to force or frighten a donkey into doing something it perceives to be dangerous for whatever reason. Once a person has earned their confidence they enjoy the company of people and are often very dependable in work. I have truly observed this relationship between donkeys I have seen here - either with their "masters" or with some kids that tend to be playful with them. Actually, animal behaviour scientists say that donkeys need companions or they will become depressed! The donkey's favorite pastime is rolling.

The donkey has also shown time and time again how wonderful it is with children and handicapped people. In some countries, for instance in  England, the donkey is used extensively in riding and animal companion programs for the physically and mentally handicapped. Their small stature, slow and thoughtful nature and affectionate disposition make them ideal for this purpose when properly selected and trained.

While domesticated asses are increasing in numbers, the African wild ass have become endangered. Donkeys vary considerably in size, depending on breed and management. Donkeys can live for 25 to 35 years of age. However, donkeys in developing countries seldom live over 10 years perhaps because of their poor living conditions and environment.

In Egypt, they say that donkeys and mules do not play an important part in religious iconography, and because they are not symbols of high status, they are not so often depicted in art. 

Although a bit outdated, a 2006 report claimed there are about 41 million donkeys worldwide at that time. China has the most with 11 million, followed by Pakistan, Ethiopia, and Mexico. Some researchers believe the actual number is somewhat higher since many donkeys go uncounted.

  

I found out George Washington owned the first donkeys born in the United States.

Although nothing compares with and beats my love for daughter Sheila's dog (hence my grandpuppy, Chuleta, a 3 year old shit-zuu), I now, with this added knowledge about donkeys, have new perceptions about this lowly animal and am including it in my list of great, lovable animals in the world. They are quiet, friendly, hardworking and reliable!

If I was fully conversant in Arabic, I would (and should) have interviewed the owner/master of the donkey to get his views on life. I can still do that next time. It should give me more insights about the life of the most ordinary folks in Egypt.

On a side note, you may see my article about Chuleta on unconditional love in one of my future blogs! 

 (Post Script: I have titled my blog series, Of Life and Leisure, by choice, so you will not find me blogging about work itself or making commentaries about some of the stark and disturbing realities in many parts of the globe.  There is a place and a time for such serious matters. For now, hope you find these short human interest blogs worthy of your reading pleasure. Thanks for all the likes my series has received so far. I am humbly and pleasantly surprised. I got into blogging, encouraged by my niece Bong, just to have an outlet for my writing energy and observant mind. To know that people read- and like- them is so encouraging. Shoukran! )

Ramadan, Iftar and Sohour

During  the holy month of Ramadan, the 9th month in the Islamic lunar calendar, Muslims are supposed to go without food, drink, smoking, and intimacy, and to refrain from impure thoughts from sunrise to sunset. Breaking the fast together with family and friends is part of the Ramadan tradition. Special nightly prayers called, Taraweeh prayers are held and recited in Mosques and provide an opportunity for Muslims to get closer to God, and to look to Allah with fear and hope. Whoever fasts during Ramadan with faith and who seeks his reward from Allah is believed to have his past sins forgiven.

Prayers are set daily  around these times (although they vary slightly on a daily basis according to the lunar movements): (fajr) dawn (3:24 a.m.), (dhuhr) noon 12:01 p.m.), (asr) afternooon (3:38 p.m.), maghrib (sunset) 6:56 p.m.), and isha (evening) (8:26 p.m.).

The first meal  after the daily fast and as soon as the sun sets is called Iftar, and usually happens around 7 p.m. Traditionally, but not mandatory, 3 dates are also eaten to break the fast, in emulation of Prophet Muhamad who broke his fast in this manner. The one just before dawn is called Sohour, the last meal before the fast begins.

The Ramadan month ends with a day long celebration known as Eid el-Fitr, which may take place around 27 or 28 of July this year. The eid begins with a special morning prayer in grand Mosques and open grounds of towns and cities of the world; and the prayer is attended by men, women and children, traditionally with their new or best clothes. A special charity, known as Zakatul-Fitr is given out prior to the prayer. The rest of the day is spent visiting relatives and friends, giving gifts to children and eating together, including favorite desserts like kunafa ataif and bassbossa.

Feeding someone iftar is also a form of charity, especially towards the poor and the needy. In the news today, it was reported that Egyptian President Abdel-Fattah el-Sisi recently invited a group of super heavy weight businessmen for iftar aimed at raising additional resources to boost the national economy and lend support to the low income and poor categories of society. It is also an admirable practice for wealthier people, or restaurants/food establishments to prepare ready-to-go iftar food boxes to give away to anyone on the road, like streetcleaners, some beggars, and also taxi drivers for instance who continue to drive around even during the time of iftar, to serve transport needs.If only for this charitable spirit, everyday should be a Ramadan day.

Anyone, even a non-Muslim like me, can learn something from Ramadan practices. It represents a time for spiritual renewal that requires physical and moral discipline.

Ramadan Kareem  is an expression typically said at this time to wish everyone a Ramadan full of blessings. In this region that is faced with many conflicts, violence, and instability, I think Ramadan provides a source of inner peace, restraint, joy and strength.

Below, a Ramadan lantern that adorns many homes and buildings; and ataif, Arabic pancakes, being made in a nearby supermarket, that is a favorite of all during this holy month.

Sleepless in Cairo

Having been in Cairo now for over a week, I still find myself adjusting to the local time, not really because of  jetlag (Cairo is only 6 hours ahead of New York, and 6 hours behind Manila).  i just seem to be experiencing an unusual  inability to dose off to a level of deep sleep - the one that gives you great energy the next day.I am usually a good sleeper, and having travelled quite a bit, I am also good at adjusting to my new (hotel) environment.  I can even sleep well on airplanes that's why I am not usually bothered by long flights.
W know that as people get older, they tend to need less sleep. But not me, inspite of the fact that I have reached the "senior mark" at age 62. I still want to have an average of 8 hours of sleep. I  try to be in bed here at around 11 p.m. , hoping to wake up at 7 a.m. I try to also not drink coffee or tea or soda at night, as that can also affect my sleeping pattern. These past few nights, I  have not slept well, i toss and turn and still see the clock at midnite, at 1 a.m., sometimes, even 2 a.m. or 3! The other day, I fell asleep at around 4 a.m. and didnt wake up to my alarm! When I opened my eyes, i panicked as I had barely had 30 minutes to take a shower and make it to my morning pick up. Obviously I also missed breakfast that morning!  Since I have opted to also not eat lunch in the office, in keeping with the spirit of Ramadan, I had my first meal that day  when I got back to the hotel at around 5 pm.
Why am I sleepless in Cairo? Maybe I miss my family.. Maybe my mind is subconsciously thinking about my work. Maybe I am affected by all the conflict and violence that  is going on in the region.. Maybe all of these....bottomline in any case, I was not sleeping soundly.
If I was Meg Ryan in Sleepless in Seattle (I love that movie..), I probably would be listening to a radio broadcast about the great fatherly qualities of Tom Hanks, especially in the eyes of his son Jonah and waiting to take that chance of meeting him at the Empire State Building. Oh well, now you know I love movies, especially romantic comedies!
While here, there are at least 4-5 English television channels I turn to at night, so I am uptodate with the  news, and catch some old TV series and documentaries.. I occasionally also watch Arabic news channels just to see news visually, and get used to listening to some Arabic words, even if I dont understand most of it.
To try to put me to sleep, I read workrelated documents; the newspaper (usually the Egyptian Gazette) which I never finish reading in the morning (in the rush of getting ready for work), as well as read books about Egypt I had bought recently, etc.
I have enough ways to put me to sleep, but have not been so successful in my first two week. Surprisingly, I have kept my productivity level at work, obviously part of my resilience.
OR could it be that I am simply imbibing the spirit of Ramadan, keeping awake after Iftar (eating the first meal after sunset to break the fast; and  then waiting for the meal before dawn), which many people do during this holy month! So let it be till the Eid el Fitr on July 27. Its not a bad idea to feel like a local in a foreign country! It is the best way to blend in....

The Sakkara step pyramid : A privileged sight of ancient history everyday

While in Manila enjoying my recent retirement from the United Nations Population Fund (UNFPA), I had an unexpected consultancy request to assist our regional office based in Cairo. Having served in this regional office for almost 3 years, prior to my reassignment to Headquarters, I felt a strong desire in my heart to accept it and I did. So here I am in Maadi (a bustling business and residential neighborhood in Greater Cairo).
For this short assignment of a few months, I have decided to stay in a hotel, The SofitelCairo Maadi Towers and Casino Hotel. (Ignore the casino part, I am not into it, never was and never will). This is contrary to my previous experience of renting an apartment in Zamalek, another part of Cairo which boasts of the most number of Foreign Embassies present in one neighborhood.
Being on the 14th floor of a 15-floor Hotel, I have a beautiful view of the Nile river, and across it, on a clear day, a daily sight of the oldest pyramid in Egypt, the Sakkara step pyramid. What a privilege! Many tourists pay much to see this ancient site, and here I am, seeing it everyday. Pleased to note that my daughters, grandson and sons in law also got to see this, among other places, when they came to visit me in Egypt in 2010.
The step pyramid of Sakkara was built in 2689 BC, built by Imhotep, the first famous architect in the world, himself an expert in mathematics, astronomy and medicine, and in later times was even worshipped as a god.
Most of the pyramids in Egypt were built by pharaos of the Old and Middle Kingdoms as their tombs. The first pyramid in history was the Sakkara, built for King Djoser. However, the three most famous pyramids were built at Giza. They include the biggest pyramid in the world, belonging to King Khufu (sometimes called Cheops).
Being here this time, and having been here many other times before.. I feel so fortunate to wake up everyday to the beauty of ancient history. I also get to catch this sight in the afternoon before sunset, during this holy month of Ramadan when I get back to the hotel earlier than usual due to shortened office hours.
Imagine being in an ancient city in a country with such rich history, culture and arts!  I just read that Cairo has no less than 600 classified monuments dating from 7th-20th centuries, some of them I have visited in the past.

What an enriching and unique chance to be here again, and to witness a new kind of history in the making.